By Jim Zebora
Posted: 01/07/2009 At 1:00:00 AM Just As The Bars In Greenwich Were Closing
Here are five black beers I've recently had the pleasure of drinking as I so diligently researched this column. Don't drink them right out of the fridge, but give the bottles 20 minutes to mellow so the flavors fully reveal themselves.
Samuel Adams
Chocolate Bock
As it warms, it mellows out to a rich panorama of flavors - roasted and caramel malts, a subtle apple- or pear-like fruitiness, and a bit of bittersweet chocolate.
It's a sophisticated beer that's been well crafted, including being aged on a bed of cocoa nibs from Swiss chocolatier Felshin.
Smooth and rich to sip, SACB is gently kraeusened for mild fermentation and a low but long-lasting head. SACB is average in alcohol content at 5.5 percent. It's a beer that would pair well with highly flavorful cheeses, sausage, turkey - even lasagna.
Redhook Limited Edition
Double Black Stout with Coffee
This revived beer from Redhook, a Washington state micro that also brews these days in Portsmouth, N.H., is a hearty black beer that dances on the tongue.
Complex malts and sugars are stirred by a rich yet restrained level of carbonation that releases bursts of flavor as you first sip, then enjoy the lingering taste and physical presence of this brew.
In some ways, Redhook Double Black is reminiscent of a deliciously peaty Scotch, with enough substance to satisfy you from first sip to last. Like the Sam Adams, this bold wintry beer is one to savor as the season unfolds.
Bluegrass Brewing Co.
Dark Star Porter
Dark Star, which the label refers to as a "traditional English-style robust dark ale," is an elegantly crafted brew that is velvety in mouthfeel yet sits on the tongue with a long, roasted finish, like good barbecue.
Despite that, it is not a bitter beer, emphasizing instead the several malts that dominate the flavor profile and deliver balance with a little bite. There's enough flavor here to put this brew in a blind tasting of stouts and have it come up in the top ranks, though it is not as opaque and chewy as a Guinness.
Overall, it's a good beer to pair with fun food like a plate of wings or ribs. Dark Star Porter was a 1997 Real Ale Fest Winner and is named after the 1953 Kentucky Derby winner, not the Grateful Dead song (too bad).
Otter Creek
Stovepipe Porter
The hop level is higher than you might expect in a porter, adding a light, piquant bitterness that finishes gently on the sides of the tongue.


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