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Wednesday, September 3, 2008

09/03/08 Garden Catering opens a deluxe outpost with late-night hours


You can't go wrong with the Special


fairfieldweekly.com

Garden Catering235 Main St., Stamford. (203) 487-0333, http://www.gardencatering.net/

There are few Fairfield County institutions I love more than Garden Catering. Goodies from the eateries (two in Greenwich, three in Stamford and two more in New York state) are tasty, cheap and highly addictive. The signature item is the "World Famous Special" (although it's doubtful how globally recognized a bag of chicken nuggets can be). It used to be known as the "High School Special" until a legal dispute stripped the combo of the title (seriously). The Special provides a half-pound of chicken nuggets and french fries (in the same bag) and a can of Coke. They splash seasoning into the bag, which not only adds a zestful kick to the somewhat standard meal but also gives you an added post-meal ritual—licking the powdery seasoning off your sticky fingers. For six dollars, it's an incredible value, and you leave very, very full.

Another favorite is the tuna quesadilla, perfectly melted and delicious, but if you only get to eat at Garden Catering every so often, the Special is hard to resist.

But of all the culinary delights to be had at Garden Catering, the chain has never been one for ambiance—or even comfort. The place on High Ridge is little more than a slender corridor, and if you don't have an intimate knowledge of local parks or greens the only option is eating in your car, which turns dipping your nuggets or fries in one of their sauces into a cumbersome act of acrobatic dexterity. Ditto for the East Stamford location, which used to have bar stools until they started "having problems," according to the manager. Fuck if I know what that means.

This made the promise of the Main Street location something approaching Shangri-la. Not only are there tables (and chairs!), but the new place is open late, Monday through Wednesday until 10 p.m., Thursday until 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m. (It's closed Sunday.) The prospects were almost heavenly.

The actuality of the place didn't quite live up. I arrived at 12:32 a.m. on a Saturday night and nothing was going on. The late hours are undoubtedly tied into the downtown club scene, but there was little evidence of synergistic cross-pollination. The bars and clubs on Main Street were packed with throngs of people with short skirts and gelled hair. They streamed out into the street—but not into Garden Catering.....

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